The key consideration is how much tinkering you really want to do. Folks rave about their high-end rim drive units, but those are very different animals from the Zero 100 (the Zero 92 was a record changer BTW). I always had trouble getting them to perform consistently as a result. They employed questionable engineering and executed to a lower quality than most of their competitors. My experiences with most Garrard products were not generally favorable.
Garrard zero 100 turntable review upgrade#
That means you’ll lose that function permanently if you choose to upgrade the arm on either. Note that both the Marantz and Sansui feature auto-off. I can’t speak to the tracking capability but would suspect it’s similar to the Marantz. The arm has a mechanical return function so the fault may not be a switch - lots of bits and pieces can cause the function to fail. MC is correct about the Sansui’s auto-off function, but finding repair parts if you’re so inclined could entail a long search. Most of the JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer, Sansui and Technics (Panasonic) have very similar designs. If I remember aright, it was actually a private labeled Japanese table. The Marantz has the best arm of the 4 and is also very robustly constructed.
Garrard zero 100 turntable review full#
Arms can all be rewired, but with oxidization of the lube in the bearings and other accumulations of entropy, a full rebuild or replacement should be on your horizon if you decide you want to get further into analog and you pick the AR. A good protractor will be a must to set alignment. No anti-skate, azimuth is how you screw the head shell in and VTF adjustment is coarse. The AR XA/XB arm is very basic and if there is a weak link, that’s it. That means the mechanical action of the arm dictates how the table ultimately performs. It is the component that determines whether the stylus can properly trace the record groove. The tonearm is a key concern with all tables of this age. There are number of YouTube tune-up videos out there and you’ll want to check them out.
91% isopropyl is usually sufficient for cleaning mechanical surfaces. No matter what, clean the platter, pulley and replace the belt. They can usually be replaced, but then you’re investing money you could have put toward a newer, and possibly better, rig. The motor has to hold it’s speed and be noise-free (both electrically and mechanically). So long as the bearing and "race" (it isn’t really, more like a sleeve in most cases but I digress) aren’t pitted or corroded, you’re fine. The main bearing assembly in these tables is easily disassembled, cleaned and oiled. Mats are a standard tweak so not a worry.īasically, the table itself just needs to spin silently. If I recall correctly, the AR platter is the heaviest of the bunch, which is generally preferable. They are dirt-simple to work on and solidly built. It’s a classic design that has remained desirable for decades. Of those, the AR could be the best way to go, especially if you like to tinker. I’ve got some experience with the AR, Marantz and Garrard tables. Hey man! Been awhile since I’ve seen your handle on a new thread, and I trust you’re still doing well. Most guys never mess around, too scared they might damage their Precious. You learn a lot and all of it directly applicable to every other analog rig you can name. You will find there is a huge difference between the sound you get initially and what you can get with just a little time and effort tweaking these things. But if you find two that are close then take a closer look at the parts and what can be improved or needs improvement. If one stands out you’re done and can get to tweaking starting with better cartridge alignment. Hopefully your guy being into it has taken care of some of the more obvious stuff like this but it pays to be thorough. Which is why checking that is one of the first steps. I have a vintage 1976 Technics and can tell you any or all when they get that old the bearing can run dry and just need lube. AR has no mat but if another one does swap it over to AR. Differences I bet will not be subtle and one will stand out and it might not be the one we think right now (Sansui). Listen for music and also listen for background noise like bearing rumble. Mount the cartridge and don’t fuss being precise it won’t be worth it. All these things can turn into major headaches later. One little jammed spring or bushing can ruin performance. Set the arm to balance at zero skating and without cartridge and check to see how freely it floats. Turn bearing by hand, feel for smoothness and play. Pull platters, check belt or idler wheel for condition- cracks, dents etc. One by one check them out visually and by hand.
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